Ssezzibwa is a pretty spot, where the river hesitates in a forest pool before taking the plunge. And there are plenty of shaded picnic sites for those who are so inclined

Setama Kamya Salango, medium of the god Kkubo, sits at the top of Ssezzebwa Falls: "He claims his baldness is a sign that he has been chosen by the river god"

I am in Kampala again. I have forgone the voyeuristic pleasures of the Speke Terrace, this time, I am staying off-centre at the Fairway Hotel.

"Oh yes, that's one of really old hotels" my Ugandan friend said. Actually, it first opened its doors in 1973. Back home, in the town of Nottingham where I both studied and taught, I used to drink in a hostelry that served the returning crusaders in 1173, or thereabouts. Which only goes to show how different the historical perspectives can be between the old countries of Europe and the new ones of Africa.

The bedrooms all face out the Kampala Golf Course and towards the wooded gardens of Kololo Hill. There is a swimming pool, a health club, a business centre, and newish conference facilities. The small Garden Cafe provides tasty samosas, sponge cakes, coffee - and a convenient spot for casual meetings.

Set on the lower slopes of Nakasero Hill and close to a roundabout on Kitante Road - which is Kampala's version of Uhuru Highway - the Fairway is only three minutes drive up the Sheraton Centre of expatriate activities, and it has immediate access to the city's escape routes. Last Sunday, I took one of them to Ssezzibwa Falls, which had been described in that morning's edition of the Sunday Vision as "the best tourist site in central Buganda."

The falls are on Ssizzibwa River, which flows out from Lake Victoria and crosses the main Jinja Road near the small Kayanja market centre, which is about 30 miles out from Kampala. The murram track on the falls leads south from the main road dukas and through the forest to Madudu Village.

The actual cascade is only 60 feet high, so it is nothing like as spectacular as Uganda's more famous 400 feet of the Murchison Falls. But Ssezzibwa is a pretty spot, where the river hesitates in a forest pool before taking the plunge. There is a jagged outcrop of white rock, which makes a natural but not too difficult assault course for children. And there are plenty of shaded picnic sites for those who are less energetic.

There is one magnificent gnarled tree that is called Enkalati and that is said to have been planted by the infamous Kabaka Mwanga over 100 years ago ("infamous," because it was Mwanga who, among a number of other sadistic acts, burnt to death 25 Christian boys at the Rubaga court who resisted his sodomistic lusts. "Martyrs Day" that commemorates their deaths is a national holiday, and it was celebrated here on June 3).

Ssezzibwa has long been associated with the Kabakas and it seems that during the time of Mutesa II (who became Uganda's President at Independence alongside Obote as Prime Minister) it was a very popular place for weekend trips from the city. But when Mutesa was forced into exile, the site was left untended and it was soon overgrown.

One person doing his best to revive the Ssezzibwa Falls fortunes (in more than one sense of the word) is Setamu Kamya Salongo, who claims to be the principal medium of the god KKubo - and "the chief adviser to the Minister of Culture in Buganda Government."

When I arrived on the Sunday afternoon, Salongo was sitting under a tree near the bottom of the falls. He was flanked by two female attendants, and his spear was stuck in the ground by his side.

After the greetings, and as soon as he ascertained that I was prepared to pay a little something for a picture and what he called "the tourism", he put on his bark cloth cloak, removed his trousers, and beckoned me to follow him up the rocks to the top of the falls. Once there, he slowly waded out to where the river foams and drops down the cliff. As he went, he suddenly let out a sound that was something between a scream and a grunt. I gathered that this was his way of summoning his grandfather's spirit, Jjajja.

He posed at the top of the falls. He called on Jjajja a number of times. And then he clambered down the craggy side of the falls to where a wet and sacrificial chicken was perched on a rock ledge.

Setamu Kamya Salongo will tell you that the waters of Ssezzibwa Falls have long been renowned for their healing power. People used to go there to bathe, pray to Kkubo, and make sacrifices of cows, goats or chickens. He says that he is now officially in charge of the place. He also claims that his baldness is a sign that he has been chosen by Kkubo. "I have never grown hair since I was born," he says. "I was appointed while still in my mother's womb."

A local pastor I met after the "photo- call" and who showed me Mwanga's Enkalati tree, said that Salongo is just a witchdoctor who is "misleading people." In his turn, Salongo argues that the restored Kabaka, Mutebi II, is not being true to his ancestors and is being misled by his close advisers. Previous Kabakas used to bring cows to the river for sacrifice, he says, and he is angry that this one is not doing so.

"I, Omusambwa, order Kabaka Mutebi to bring my cows here. If he does not do it, his land will surely go."

Land is the number one issue these days in Uganda - following publication of the draft Land Bill. And it is the Buganda landlords who feel most threatened. But it seems that President Museveni is not the only one who is rapping the Kabaka's knuckles.